The Importance of Small Plates: Alex Stupak’s excellent Empellon Cocina has eliminated entrees (i.e. main courses) in favor of smaller shared plates and tacos. He’s done this before but looks like this time he’s sticking to his guns. As Stupak explained on Twitter: “our tacos seem to be what anchors us and besides they are more fun to work with than 6-8 ounces of clunky protein.” He says that he plans on “developing the middle of the menu and expanding it.”
And just to drive the point home, Stupak adds: “I can’t stand [entrees] so I’m never cooking them again.”
Shared plates is the right move for a restaurant that’s as envelope-pushing as Empellon Cocina, with dishes like sea urchin guacamole or sweetbread sandwiches. If you don’t like a particular preparation (unlikely, b/c of the food is awesome), you just move onto the next dish, without having to commit to a larger portion.